Brushing without pulling: brushes and technique
Most dogs that hate the brush have been pulled. The right brush for the coat and the right technique turn brushing into something the dog comes looking for.
Which brush for which coat
- Short coat: a natural bristle brush or a rubber grooming glove. Removes dead hair and spreads the natural oils, which is where the shine comes from.
- Long or curly coat: a slicker (fine, bent pins) for the main work and a metal comb to check. If the comb passes down to the skin without catching, you are done.
- Double coat with undercoat: a slicker for daily use and an undercoat rake during shedding. No blades, they cut the healthy hair.
- Wiry coat: slicker plus comb, and periodic hand-stripping at the groomer.
The technique that does not pull
- Never dry on a long coat. Mist lightly with a detangling spray. Dry hair breaks and builds up static.
- In layers. Lift the top layer with one hand and brush the layer underneath, from the skin outwards. Brushing only the surface leaves a matted layer at the skin that only the groomer discovers.
- Knots from the tip to the root. Hold the hair between your fingers above the knot so you do not pull the skin, and work the ends first.
- Short and often. Five minutes every day beats an hour on Sunday. Stop before the dog gets tired.
- The trouble spots: behind the ears, the armpits, the groin, around the collar. That is where the first mats appear.
When not to try
A dense, hard mat down to the skin is not brushed out, it is clipped. Trying to tear it hurts and ruins the dog's relationship with the brush for months. Go to a groomer and start fresh.